Lisa Blake 2017-05-20 05:17:46
DISH TO DIE FOR LOVELY LAYERS STÉPHANE OHAYON CREDITS HIS 102-YEAR-OLD GRANDMOTHER for ancestral culinary grace. It’s her handwritten South of France cookbook and his appreciation for earth-given flavor that make Belle V.’s small plates sing. Ohayon and wife Jaci opened Breck’s French-inspired bistro in December 2016. We asked them to share a bright, seasonal dish and the couple landed on Lamb Tian. Ohayon takes yellow onion, organic baby spinach, basil, fresh tomatoes, wild mushrooms and Colorado Rosen lamb loin and prepares each component separately before meticulously building his delicate tower. The grilled medium-rare lamb medallion marinated in herbes de Provence is the crowning jewel on the chive-oiled plate. Pair with a French Rhône and appreciate the individual ingredients. We think grandmother would approve. 500 S. Main St., 970-771-3456, bellevbistro.com —LISA BLAKE PROFILE THE ART OF BOLD EATING Breck visionaries go high-end hip with artisan breakfasts and a Mediterranean focus. STEPPING INTO BOLD the week before the soft opening and finding restaurant trailblazer Terry Barbu on hands and knees, putting the finishing flooring touches on his one-hundredth masterpiece was no surprise. Sure, he has a solid team at the ready—many of them promoted from his other two Breckenridge success stories, FlipSide and the Blue Stag Saloon—but BoLD co-owner Barbu operates with a scrupulous design eye and dedication to his future guests. For him, bulls-eyeing the ambiance is just as crucial as menu execution. Barbu opened his first restaurant in Denver at age 23 and, over the last three decades, has redesigned and helped launch dozens of eateries across the country. “These are giant paintings for me, like 3-D pieces of art,” he says. Business partners David and Marina Knell called on Barbu when they decided to jump into the restaurant business. The trio landed on next-level artisan-style breakfast (think pork belly benedicts with chipotle hollandaise and boozy banana cream cheese-stuffed French toast) and a Mediterranean-focused lunch and dinner menu calling on Marina’s Greek family recipes. The flaky spinach and feta spanakopita and the indulgent lamb BLT were instant hits. Executive Chef Tyler Daley and his team make everything on the massive menu from scratch, down to toasting and grinding spices, and dishes are plated with an artistic hand. The baker comes in at 3 a.m. to make the day’s biscuits and breads. “The name is BoLD, so we sat down and said, ‘let’s make things bold,’” Barbu says. “Like our green curry; it fills up your mouth, it’s big,” Daley adds. As for Barbu’s design, 104-seat BoLD is a key element in Main Street Station’s revival. Nine months of renovations left nothing from former Ullr’s Sports Grill but the walk-in cooler. Textured layers of brick, African mahogany and cold steel fuse with muted grays and orange bursts among booths and tables. Hardbacks line the bookshelves, gold embossed spines of French Reader’s Digests glinting when sun filters through the floor-to-ceiling windows. “I’ve gone into people’s homes with libraries in them and they’re just so comfortable. I want people to get that feeling of comfort,” Barbu says. “Like they’re getting a big hug when they walk in.” 505 S. Main St., 970-423-5150; boldbreck.com BoLD Highlights • All-day build-your-own Bloody Mary bar with more than 40 hot sauces • Spacious summer patio • Chef’s picks: The moussaka (Greek lasagna) and the BoLD burger made with beef and chorizo; for breakfast, the berry waffle with housemade berry whipped cream • A wine list that runs up and down the west coast, into Spain, Italy and even Portugal • 16 rotating beer taps, mainly Colorado
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